From carnival to Copacabana and caipirinhas, Brazil is a dazzling place to visit. Joanne O’Connor picks her highlights from five of the country’s most colourful cities

I have no photographs of my first holiday to Brazil – a two-week package deal in the early 90s including flights to Rio, a hotel in Copacabana and carnival tickets. I decided not to take a camera because I didn’t want to “stand out as a tourist”. But as I sat on the beach in my sensible swimsuit, white English thighs sizzling, my Lonely Planet guidebook propped open on my head as a sun hat, a crowd of children gathered, pointing, laughing and shouting “Camarão!” (which means prawn). The notion that a camera would be the thing to mark me out as a hapless gringo seemed laughable.

So, no photos to look at, but the memories are indelible: the lights from the favelas twinkling on the hillsides, the ground shaking in the sambadromo as the drummers marched towards us, the shock of seeing small children sleeping under flyovers, my first taste of passion fruit…

Each time I return to Brazil I fall in love with it again. Here’s a guide to some of the highlights which await both football fans and those inspired by the wall-to-wall coverage to visit.

SAO PAULO
Why go? São Paulo is hosting the World Cup opening ceremony and at least one England game (against Uruguay on 19 June). It has the most exciting cultural, culinary and nightlife scene in Latin America. Don’t be daunted by the size of this sprawling metropolis – just pick a neighbourhood and get a local to show you around. Vayable.com offers walking and cycling tours led by Paulistanos, or embark on a Taste of São Paulo (tasteofsaopaulofoodtours.com) foodie walking tour.

If you do only one thing Masp (masp.art.br) is home to the finest collection of western art in Latin America. At weekends the space beneath it is given over to an antiques and craft market, and street food, too.

Where to hang out Sample two great Brazilian traditions – samba and feijoada (pork and bean stew) – at Bar Samba in Vila Madalena on a Saturday (Rua Fidalga, 308, +55 11 3819 4619). The neighbourhood has lots of little galleries, bookshops and botecos (bars) to hang out in.

Escape the crowds São Paulo is a hard-working town, but on Sundays you can see its softer side by hiring a bike and exploring the Ciclofaixas de Lazer – 30km of car-free cycle lanes which link the major parks (ciclofaixa.com.br).

RIO DE JANEIRO
No trip to Brazil is complete without a visit to Rio, a city that turns the dial up to 11. All life can be found on the beaches of Copacabana, Ipanema and Leblon, from surfing street kids to strutting supermodels. Take the streetcar up to the bohemian neighbourhood of Santa Teresa, all arty cafés and colonial charm, or hire a pedalo or bike at Rodrigo de Freitas Lagoon, Rio’s version of Central Park.

If you do only one thing It’s hard to overstate the beauty of Rio’s setting, its jungle-clad mountains and series of scalloped bays. Board the cable car to the top of Sugar Loaf Mountain (bondinho.com.br) at sunset, and you’ll be in a postcard.

Where to hang out The Lapa district is Rio’s nightlife hub. Every night samba bands busk on the streets or play in dance halls, such as Carioca Da Gema (Rua Mem de Sa, 79) or the slightly touristy (but fab) Rio Scenarium (Rua do Lavradio, 28).

Escape the crowds Tijuca National Park is the world’s largest urban forest, and it’s located in the heart of Rio. Jungle Me Tours can arrange hiking tours through the rainforest and a climb to the top of Corcovado to see the iconic Christ the Redeemer statue (jungleme.com.br).

MANAUS
Manaus will host England’s first game of the tournament – the city was also overrun by rampaging Europeans during the 19th-century rubber boom, which left a legacy of grand buildings, such as the ornate Teatro Amazonas and the Rio Negro Palace. Today it’s the jumping-off point for Amazon rainforest adventures. The launch in June of flights from London with Tap Air Portugal (flytap.com) will further raise this fast-growing city’s profile.

If you do only one thing Guided tours of the gold-domed Teatro Amazonas, built in 1896, run most days (best when the orchestra is rehearsing). People-watch at Praça Sâo Sebastiâo, the square out in front.

Where to hang out On the banks of the chocolate-coloured Rio Negro, Ponta Negra beach is popular for locals and tourists. Kiosks sell tropical juice, beer, caipirinhas and snacks, and there’s often music from boi-bumba bands, the Amazon’s answer to samba.

Escape the crowds Manaus is a launchpad for riverboat adventures on the Rio Negro and Amazon – Swallows & Amazons organises cruises for all budgets (swallowsandamazonstours.com). Or book a few nights at a jungle lodge – at the Tariri Amazon Lodge outside Manaus, stay in thatched cabins on stilts (taririamazonlodge.com).

SALVADOR
Sultry Salvador, the heartland of Afro-Brazilian culture, was the main entry point for slaves from the African continent. Their legacy lives on in capoeira and spicy cuisine.

If you do only one thing Take a walking tour of the Pelourinho, a Unesco World Heritage Site (the neighbourhood still has an edge though). Here you’ll find capoeira and drumming schools, many offering classes to tourists. On Tuesday nights there’s a massive street party, including drumming group Olodum.

Where to hang out Rio Vermelho is an up-and-coming area for nightlife with a bohemian flavour. Look out for the barracas do acarajé – stalls selling street foods.

Escape the crowds Most people head north by bus to Bahia’s golden beaches dotted with laid-back resorts. In the rainy season, which coincides with the World Cup, head to the wild Chapada Diamantina. Fly from Salvador to Lençóis, where agencies provide walking guides and camping gear.

BELO HORIZONTE
Football fans visiting for England’s game against Costa Rica on 24 June should schedule in a few days in this likeable city ringed by mountains with a lively cultural scene, striking modernist architecture, a handful of world-class museums and galleries, great food and some of the best nightlife outside of Rio and São Paulo.

If you do only one thing The Pampulha complex is a man-made lake surrounded by modern buildings, several designed by Brazil’s most famous architect, Oscar Niemeyer. It’s home to the museum of modern art, the university and the São Francisco de Assis church. Near the lake you’ll find the botanical gardens, zoo and the Mineirão football stadium.

Where to hang out The city is famed for its botecos which compete for best bar snacks in the annual Comida di Buteco festival. Experience the lively bar scene around the Praça da Savassi, where the city’s bright young things flock.

Escape the crowds Inhotim is one of Brazil’s most extraordinary places: an open-air contemporary art gallery surrounded by botanical gardens and coffee plantations, a 90-minute drive away (inhotim.org.br). Those with time to spare should visit a nearby colonial town: Ouro Preto and Tiradentes are beautiful and easily reached by public transport.

• Brazil

Joanne O’Connor

theguardian.com